Thursday 25 February 2016

Travelling tales:4 A trip to backwaters in God's own country

 Travelling tales:4     A trip to backwaters in God's own country

Thou Say"Life is a journey",
To An unknown destination,
To an unknown place,
Yet my soul pines for solace
Amidst heavenly blue and green,
Calms down,makes me glee in serene.

Thou say"Many stories remain untold",
Yet few stories hath destiny to unfold,
Of mine,thee or my amigos,
Of all or thou,no matter those.
 Life and paths, go together,
A comrade  goes along better,
In shadows and in lights,
Soothes me day and night.

Thou say"Not every story becomes a tale",
Following life in nature's trail ,
Yet my heart seeks a rhythm,
A sense of deja vu,a feeling of i am.
Walking barefoot on pebels,
Writing my tales of travels.....
                                (Rajni Vohra)
It was certainly not an impromptu decision to visit God's own country to rejoice its never-ending and heavenly backwaters in the month of Sep,2008 as it was a pending wish for a long time, though during those days, connectivity was not that good the way it is today, yet in pursuance of the delight, reached  Mumbai to catch the flight (no intentional rhyming, just happened anyways:)in the wee hours.
Our eyes were literally burning of being restless and tired,luckily flight departed on time and landed us safely to the destination.From there,went to the travel kiosk of Incredible India, located next to the exit point of airport where a Malayali lady on desk ,politely asked in Malayalam accent "Where do you want to go",Madam? I whispered:Kottayam (backwaters begin from Kumarokome).We took Tavera to cover the distance of some 65 km, roughly 2 hrs.Though we were starvin like marvin, thus asked driver to stop at a little rustic food joint (can't recollect name of the place) where just puffed red Kerala rice and sambhar were available, enough to survive,thinking so ordered 3 rice plates,costed less than hundred bucks,reasonably good food. Also Onam festival was going on , thus spotted a Mahabali riding on an auto, generously showering his blessings on us. On our way, we had a company of winding roads,green fields of pineapple,jack-fruit and endless coconut trees.

On reaching Kottayam,our first job was to select the hotel from the list we prepared. Finally we zeroed in on Aida, a sophisticated hotel with all amenities including a restaurant on ground floor.Somehow the  aroma of spices from hotel's kitchen tickled our taste buds ...not our fault!!!! And we headed straight to ground floor where traditional Kerala meal was being served and to entertain guests a band was playing some instrumental western music.Despite not being very hungry,felt tempted to eat all...
A courteous hotel manager guided us well about places in and around.In evening, we decided to take a round of the town starting with  a temple, Thirunakkara Mahadevar  and then headed to Kairali artifacts store,situated on bakers hill road.An expensive place to shop .....with good stuff.
 In evening called up a house boat owner and narrated our next day plan.Next morning we all felt  fresh and energetic and headed to a famous eatery Arya.We were suggested by a local friend  to give here a try for breakfast;  famous for its USP- quality.
An indica was sent to pick us and almost in half an hour,we reached a place that was totally submerged into greenery and water.At the same time,it was drizzling with black clouds scattered in the sky.After waiting five minutes, a big houseboat arrived with 3 men inside who welcomed us inside the boat.


















We were pleasantly surprised at its grandeur and enchanting decoration,entering into a really huge drawing room, two bedrooms attached with washrooms and kitchen. As soon as we settled ,our cruised began its ride, a ride to breathtaking landscapes,beautiful lagoons, heavenly nature,most lively villages and what not.....After sometime,cook came to take order for lunch and while we were engrossed with the lovely nature,an aroma of authentic Malabar meals knocked at our nasal senses,as we saw a tray full of Kerala delicacies(veg stew, malabar chicken, cabbage poriyal, avayal,steamed red rice,and of course appalam!!!)coming out of the kitchen.We could not wait anymore to start.Food was awesome...however language was certainly a big barrier as men on boat could only speak and understand their native language.
On our way,we saw dozens of houseboats with the Caucasian friends, mostly old -enjoying their rides,waving hands and capturing supremely charming landscapes. Also wondered to see kids coming from school in their boat-bus:)----and people doing their regular household chores amidst the water .
Finally ,we could not stop ourselves to jump on a piece of land beside a very tiny, but unique church,it was certainly a different feeling and  an experience of life,though we could not spend much time over there since it was pouring heavily.Our  gently moving cruise steered through some unknown,strange and  mesmerizing green narrow allies surrounded by pristine coconut trees in abundance and we  were totally immersed into the  tranquility of heavenly place. Did not realize how time flew till reached a point where boat became still and tied with rope to a place for the night halt; Now we did not know what to do,as there were only few Malayalam DVDs were available.
We preferred simple rice and sambhar for dinner.
It was pitch dark around ,nothing was visible so we headed towards bedroom after some conversation. Little did we know that some uninvited guests were waiting their for night feast(mosquitoes:) ; Wished Government of Kerala could make it cleaner and make provisions to prevent throwing faeces directly into water --which eventually cause perpetual stink in this paradise

Anyway, next morning was pleasant,we got up early to see new sites such as Kumarkum bird century and some exotic five star properties situated on the banks of river.After an hour, we were served with  steaming appams,chutney and hot delicious coffee and finally reached a point where a cab was waiting for us...
Probably the most calm,cherish-able and leisurely trip we ever had in our life.

..No wonder why it is called Venice of the east.




Wednesday 10 February 2016

Travelling tales 3- A Trip to heaven in the heaven:Munnar









Travelling tales 3-  A Trip to heaven  in the  heaven:Munnar



Days-4 or 5(max.)
Time-1:45 minutes(from Pune)
 Air ticket-4000/p return(booking well in advance)
Hotel Tariff-2-2.5k (off-season)
Taxi Indica-2000/day




Whenever life becomes boring harping on the same string of monotony, I feel like breaking the trap of repetition and running away to an aloof hill lock, and what better place one can think of than a tiny hilly tea nestled hamlet like Munnar,my first choice as it is always easier to reach there due to excellent  direct connectivity between Pune and Kochi,less than 2 hrs and if booked well in time ,ticket can be as cheap as going to Bangalore, thanks to the Spice jet .
In fact why I call it" a heaven in the heaven" as Kerala "Gods own country"itself is a heaven and Munnar( meaning: three rivers) is  probably one of the best illustrations to substantiate the aforesaid. Mere words are not enough to understand how this heaven feels and looks-like.One needs to actually visit the place to feel its charm.So allow me to take you on to another journey .


We planned our trip in the month of September, though Sep is off season in Munnar on account of heavy rains and thunder storms, nevertheless we went ahead with our 4 days plan and reached airport around 10 to catch Pune-Kochi flight.Flight took off on its scheduled departure time i.e11:15 and around 1pm landed in Koch airport. One can easily book taxi from the airport prepaid booth though we had already made arrangements of taxi from the airport to take us to Munnar(roughly 120 km,3.5 hrselevation1700m) through some local friend                                         

It was beautifully pouring at that time and like all big metro cities, it took us some 45 minutes to cross the city due to heavy traffic jam.And once city got crossed,the real Kerala beganwherever eye could see, that was just green,green and green.
After some 90 km on NH-49, arrived at a small town Adimali ,famous for "Eastern Spices"manufacturing plant situated here.(By the way, these spices are available in Phoenix market too),one can do a very basic shopping here.The place itself has beauty in abundance like Cheepara falls, Valara falls, Adimali waterfall and many more ....There are also few hotels: MGS Residency(seems good and affordable), hill fort, Palco etc (never stayed here though).We got down to enjoy gushing Chepparra falls.(surprisingly public utilities are available here).



Valara falls


As soon as we crossed Adimaly,we were amazed to see sudden changes in the landscape. Hilly forests got replaced by green carpet of tea gardens, temperature dipped and hills became elevated,road became more winding.And within an hour we reached our destination: Munnar. We chose to stay in Le Celestium,a hotel just 2 km within the town. I would recommend not to stay beyond 5 km in this town ,though there are many hotels situated in secluded hills. This is really a small hill station with very basic facilities. You might be really stuck at times for food or medical emergency if staying a little more farther in the town. Also you have plenty of choices to eat anywhere instead of sticking to limited options offered by any hotel. By the way, nothing comes even closer to Sarvanna Bhavan,when it comes to food(only vegetarian) and eateries like Shree Mahaveer Bhojanalya offers only Gujarati and marawari food-veg(never tried)
For non -veg ,Rapsy,Surya Soma and S.N restaurant can be tried.
Munnar has abundance of beauty no matter whichever direction you go i.e towards (Udmalpet or Topstation or Devikulam, and of course Kochi) you will surely be mesmerized. Each direction can be easily covered in one day.For example-Mattupatty lake and dam,Indo-Swiss live stock farm, Kundale dam,echo point and top station fall in one direction(east),Devikulam lake,Periyankanal water falls,Pech garden dam,Anayirankal dam,Kullukumlai tea estate

                                               
                                           Cheppara Water fall

                                             
 in the direction of Thekaddy . West direction covers Anamudi(highest peak of south) and Eravikulam National park.Though my favourite is--- Udmalpet-coimbatore(north direction), which offers panoramic view, sprawling tea estates and all the colors that nature can offer to man for soothing-eyes, covers Marayoor sandal forest, Chinnar wild life century,thoovnam water fall,Muniyara etc.......

 Second day-We began our morning after having mouth-watering Onion Uttapam for breakfast, with Mattupatty lake and dam, green,serene water with boating facility, a famous spot for film shootings,one can enjoy roasted cashews sold around and indulge in shopping of gifts from nature such as vanilla, chocolate powder, spices,essential oils and many more.....Next point was echo point (heard that a scene from Nishabd shot here!), again beautiful grassy landscape with almost zero litter(thanks to  the government of Kerala),and then suddenly I got mentally transported to a European hamlet once reached Indo-Swiss live stock farm  (see to believe) .

 Indo-Swiss live stock farm

Echo point
       Devikulam lake



 

kundale dam and river

  
Our next destination was Top station- geographically falls behind hills of Kodaikanal,and few decades back, route from this place(vattavada-last motorable point of Munnar) to Kodaikanal was opened,however due to some endangered and precious flora and fauna government closed down the road, nevertheless adventurous bikers and  daring tracking lovers can always seek permission from the forest dept.to go via hills to reach the other hill station.I have heard and read many stories of expedition on this route.
Coming back to top station, it is difficult to reach for old people beyond a certain point as there is an old stone-made staircase to climb and crossing steep rustic path is not less challenging.However, visiting this place  worth and deserves every bit of it for its splendid view .You will find many tribal ladies sitting around and selling honey in glass bottles. Also enjoyed marvelous kundale dam and Devikulam lake,equally mesmerizing and quiet.On a lucky day, one can spot a herd of elephants!!!!
 Top station


It was almost lunch time,and just outside this point(near Parking) there is one restaurant, which serves south-Indian meal and  like us, many other tourists who were starving and could not bear anymore, tried the food here. Frankly speaking, food was not tasty at all, but it was just food to fill belly, should only be tried if you can not wait to reach town i.e another one hour.Around 4 o clock ,we headed to our hotel after fulfilling our routine caffeine-addiction at Sarvana bhawan.

Third day-Next day was luckily,a sunny bright day and we planned to cover Ervakulam national park,rose garden along with Tata tea factory.We got down at ticket point, from where a mini-bus picked to go on ascending hills of National park,on the way crossed some beautiful waterfalls and finally got down at a point ,from there just1-2km walk was allowed to a point,beyond that only forest jeep can go.Well,,if you are lucky,you may spot some nilgiri tahr(a Got like animal),also it offers best view of Anamudi hill.In a nutshell-must visit place.Same day, visited tea factory and bought some.
Also saw Rose Garden,very tiny like a nursery, situated on a hilly terrain in the middle of the town.

 
 National park and view of Anamudi


Fourth day- Our driver asked to start early since we were planning to head towards Udmalpet-Coimbatore road(sh-17) 50 km Maryoor ,famous for sandal trees and Chinar Wild life sanctuary,very close to tamilnadu border,enrouting a pre-historic dolmens site belonging to iron age with very little pastoral population,called Muniyara.
Believe me...the route itself is so picturesque and beautiful that you forget about reaching the destination. A perfect place for a poet to sit and contemplate....with vivid colors of nature, amazing flora and fauna, vast spectacular tea-estates , fresh fragrance of trees plants,flowers mingled in the air,a true virgin nature,probably one of the most amazing and splendid landscapes 1 have ever seen in my life!!!By the time we reached Maryoor, it was lunchtime and we explored a clean eating joint situated in middle of the town .Since weather was turning its faces from bright sunny to cloudy dark,we dropped plan to visit Chinar Wildlife and skipped lankom water fall as well,and headed towards  Munnar in  the evening, bought some local gifts and home made chocolates

Fifth day-Time to go back,pack bag and baggage and say bye to this wonderful place with the promise to come back, and  with some beautiful memories,amazing souvenirs, precious pics and lingering fascination in the mind to wander in cloudy,misty and dewy tea gardens soon!!!!.


View from hotel